Sometimes in Venice I crave real nature and want to see some idyllic country life, so a few days ago I decided to spend half a day in the Euganean Hills, lying a few kilometres south of Padua. The area is also a regional park, and it's dotted with agriturismi (restaurants that offer food that's locally produced) and bed & breakfasts. The Euganean Hills are also renowned for products like wine, honey, olive oil, and brodo di giuggiole (a liquor made with jujube fruits). To explore this region I took a train from Venice to Monselice (47 minutes) for €4,75 one way.
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| Euganean Hills near Arquà Petrarca |
In Monselice there are some medieval fortifications, a tower and a castle perched on a hill. Unfortunately, when I visited it was winter, and the castle was closed, so I can't tell you if it's worth going in. In Monselice you have a magnificent view over the surrounding plain and the hills. There are also examples of architecture from other periods: villa Nani-Mocenigo was for example built at the end of the 15th century, and Villa Duodo at the end of the 16th century. They were both owned by aristocratic Venetian families, and still today they are very scenic, even seen from the outside. There is even a monumental staircase with statues to give you an idea of the extravagance of these families. For the Duodo family, Vincenzo Scamozzi also built the Seven Churches Sanctuary, which later became a pilgrimage site.
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| Castle of Monselice |
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| Statues at Villa Duodo |
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| Staircase of Villa Nani |
After having a look at Monselice, I took a long walk among the hills to reach another jewel of the area, the tiny village of Arquà Petrarca. It takes about one hour to reach it on foot, but the landscape is breathtaking. On the way I met many people on their bikes, hiking, or even horse-riding. Apparently it is not uncommon to do this passeggiata (walk) when the weather is nice. The road meanders through vineyards, farmsteads, and olive trees. Needless to say, it is beyond pleasant.
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| Euganean Hills between Monselice and Arquà Petrarca |
Arquà Petrarca is an enchanting village, actually included in "I borghi più belli d'Italia", a list of the most beautiful Italian hamlets (I can't find a better word to translate borgo) . The place is famous because it hosts the house where the 14th-century poet Francesco Petrarca resided in the last years of his life, surrounded by olive trees and vineyards. Many famous people have visited the house, and the area, in the past centuries, including Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley. If you are visiting Colli Euganei, it is really worth paying a visit. The house itself is lovely, and it has some frescoes inside, as well as a small exhibition about the poet's life.
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The house of Petrarch
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| View from the balcony just before sunset |
The village is pleasant even if you don't know much about Italian literature. Who said that you need to go to Tuscany to find peaceful and picturesque medieval villages where life seems to have stopped?
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| Historical Arquà Petrarca |
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| Arquà Petrarca |
On the way back towards Monselice I saw a spectacular sunset: it encompassed all the colours from orange to pink and even violet. It was a short trip, but really rewarding. It was almost like travelling back in time, when the rhythms of life were slower...
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| Sunset among the vineyards |
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| Sunset again |
