Around the world in 15 meals

1) Instanbul, Turkey

What is there better than a plate of meze on a hot day in Istanbul? This is supposed to be just an appetizer, but it worked fine for me as a light lunch. It included various dips like hummus, eggplant salad and haydari, then dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and some cheese. Everything with vegetable sticks for the dips. By the way, that puffy bread is called lavas and I love it. 



Meze lunch in Istanbul

2) Mostar, Bosnia

One of my favourite meals in Bosnia and of the whole Balkan trip was the Hadzijski cevap (marinated beef with peppers and rice) that I had in the old town of Mostar. It was simple but delicious, and also really cheap! 

Bosnia

3) Amsterdam, Netherlands

What to do when you are visiting a country that is not really famous for its cuisine, you've already tried the obvious and looking around you can only see burgers and fries? In big cities in central or northern Europe, like Munich or London, I usually find that Asian food is top notch. So while in Amsterdam, I repeatedly stopped by Indonesian and Thai restaurants. My favourite was Bird Thai restaurant in Chinatown (close to the red light district). 

Red Thai curry in Amsterdam

4) Lisbon, Portugal

If I could recommnend only one Portuguese dish it would be  bacalhau com natas. The Portuguese have many ways to cook cod, but creamy bacalhau com natas is my favourite. I was lucky enough to participate in a dinner organized by my hostel in Lisbon and this is how I got to taste this delicious typical dish. I am already making plans to go back to Portugal and have it one more time. This is how much I liked it!

Bacalhau com natas

5) Schwangau, Germany

It might not be haute cuisine but I just had to try currywurst in Germany, if only for curiosity. The history of this spiced sausage is quite interesting, because it was invented in Berlin just after WWII borrowing curry powder and ketchup (or possibly Worcestershire sauce) from British soldiers. It became a popular snack with the workers who were rebuilding the devastated city, and it is still today a popular take-away food, not only in Berlin but all over Germany.

Currywurst in Germany

6) Marrakesh, Morocco

Vegetarian tagine in an informal restaurant in the medina of Marrakesh - my favourite kind of place where you don't feel weird if you're eating alone (in this case I wasn't). Tagine is the name of the earthenware pot where food is cooked, so you could have many different of tagine: chicken with vegetables, but also with sardines by the sea or with meat and dried fruit. I had this with a glass of orange juice, which seems to be ubiquitous in Marrakesh.

A vegetarian tajine in Marrakesh

7) Paris, France

This dish had a name so long that it did not fit in a single line on the menu. Then it turned out to be a steak with potatoes. Overall, my experiences with food in Paris went better when I blatantly tried not to order French food: for example at felafel joints or at a Korean restaurant. I think I owe Paris - and France - a second chance. Next time I'll document myself and try to order some French food with a better understanding of French cuisine.

A meal in Paris

8) Mdina, Malta

From a culinary point of view, Malta is a mix of influences. And how could it not be so? In spite of having been an English colony in the past, Malta is decidedly more Italian than British when you sit down for lunch or dinner. These spaghetti all'amatriciana - which means in a tomato sauce with pancetta (or even better guanciale) and chilli peppers - were really good. I discovered later that many Italian restaurants in Malta are owned by Italian people, hailing from all over the country and enjoying Malta's relaxed lifestyle and mild weather. 

Pasta all'amatriciana in Malta

9) Stratford-upon-Avon, United Kingdom

I'll always remember this bento box meal I had in Shakespeare's hometown, Stratford-upon-Avon. The Japanese chef was entertaining us, pretending to throw bottles at the clients and things like that. The food didn't look that Japanese, apart from the yakitori, but it was the first time that I had lunch in a box, and I loved the idea.

10) Valencia, Spain

You cannot get bored with all the food in Spain: pintxos from the Basque Country, tapas that may include fish or cured meats like chorizo or jamon iberico, and regional specialities such as the Andalusian gazpacho. After more than three years in Spain I am still busy discovering all its variety. Nothing beats, however, a good seafood paella in a fishing town. 

A paella in Valencia

11) Split, Croatia

For the most part I found Croatian food uninspiring.  They once served me cod telling me it was a more prestigious seabass, while risotto and pasta were only an imitation of what you would have in Italy (which is so close after all). This tuna salad, nevertheless, on the city beach in Split, was really good, and just what I needed after a morning of sunbathing and dipping my toes in the turquoise waters of the Adriatic.

Tuna salad in Split

12) Kotor, Montenegro

All over the Balkans you will find these spiced sausages: ćevapčići. Sometimes - especially in Serbia and Bosnia - they serve them with a piece of flat bread, with chopped onions and sour cream, but in Montenegro I had it with French fries. I really enjoyed the meal, plus I had a perfect view of the main square of Kotor.

Cevapcici in Kotor

13) Brno, Czech Repulic

Czech Republic might not be famous as a culinary destination, but I had a few good meals there. It was long ago, but I still remember having Smažený sýr, different kinds of fried cheese served with potatoes and salad. This was in Brno and not in Prague (I must be the only person in the world who has been in the Czech Republic but hasn't been to Prague).

Smažený sýr in Brno

14) Bangkok, Thailand

I arrived in Bangkok after travelling for many hours (and after two sleepless nights) and I went directly to take a much deserved nap. A couple of hours after I woke with a grumbling stomach and went for a Pad Thai in the neighboorhood. It was not long after that I became addicted. It is a simple dish after all: noodles with  bean sprouts, some prawns or seafood, and cashew nuts sprinkled on top. Oh, and don't forget a sprinkle of lime and some chilli peppers to have that caracteristic taste. 

15) Pisa, Italy

And last but not least Italy, my country. Even though I am Italian, each time I visit a new region I discover new things to taste. Italy is not only pasta and pizza, as I keep saying to those who think that Italian cuisine is boring! We have plenty of that, for sure, but also other dishes: risotto in the north, delicious grilled fish and seafood served with plenty of vegetables, soups with pulses in Tuscany and meat with mushrooms or polenta in the mountains. My favourite, though, is always pizza!

A pizza in Italy

My Most Exciting Travel Moments of 2014

Making it to Ait Benhaddou. It was one of my dreams to travel to this citadel at the edges of the desert. It is featured in so many movies that when you arrive there it induces a feeling of déjà-vu, and still you can't believe that you're actually there, staring at this most exotic of the exotic places in North Africa. Our young guide with a blue turban, the alleys of this ghost town made of sand and straw, not to mention the incredible light will be impossible to forget and are one the highlights of my trip to Morocco. 
 

In front of Ait Benhaddou, in Morocco

 

Trying new food and finding out unexpected gems. As I'm sure it is for you, food is always a big part of my travel experience. This year I tried food in Morocco, Portugal, Germany, Austria, Spain and, of course, Italy. Between finding out about the vibrant Asian food scene in Munich and trying out knoedels, gulash and Bauerngroestl in Austria, the German-speaking countries I visited this year were a real surprise in terms of taste buds, and not at all boring, as some people will make you believe. 



Asian food in Munich, Germany

Ticking off Neuschwanstein Castle from my bucket list. As cliché as it may sound, I have a bucket list of fascinating and enchanted places that I really want to visit, and this fairy-tale castle was at the very top, together with Lake Bled, which I visited in 2013. The trip I took to some of the jewels of the Bavarian Alps - Neuschwanstein Castle, Linderhof and Oberamerggau - revealed to be jam-packed with magic. I loved learning about Ludwig and his crazy romantic ideas!

Checking out Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany

Seeing the Sahara desert. I also have a bucket list of landscapes that I want to see at least once in my life: an ocean, a desert, a rainforest, a volcano up close, a canyon, a mighty rainfall, a geyser, and so on (it might be a never-ending bucket list!). Riding a camel, sleeping in a tent in the desert, eating a meal prepared by Bedouins, climbing a dune: I had the opportunity to do all of these when I was in Morocco earlier this year.



On top of a dune in Erg Chebbi

 

Riding tram n.28 in Lisbon. What would Lisbon be without its yellow trams? My last day in Lisbon started with a ride on this old tram. I managed to find a seat next to the window - not an easy thing these days, since the tram is one of the main tourist attractions of the city - and watched Lisbon unfold in front of me, as the tram went up and down the famous hills of the city. 
 

Women enjoying Lisbon and tram n.28

 

Moving to Barcelona. When I decided to move to Barcelona almost on a whim last July, I  didn't know what to expect. Will I find a job? Will I like the city? Will I have the time to explore more of Catalonia and Spain? Yes, yes and yes. Barcelona is pretty exciting by itself, but since I arrived, I have been to Tarragona, Sitges, Montserrat, Zaragoza and Girona. My favourite place outside of Barcelona? Probably Montserrat, a breathtakingly beautiful mountain with a monastery tucked onto a rock - a place that should receive a lot more recognition from international tourism.



The mountains near Montserrat

What were your most exciting travel moments of 2014?

Katzentempel, the first cat café in Munich

I had always dreamt of visiting a cat café, which is a regular coffee shop where you can pet cats and the ambience is built for the well-being of the animals, with parcours and pillows. Cat cafés were born in Asia: the first one opened in Taiwan back in 1998, and then spread to Japan, where they are still very popular.  In the past few years, cat cafés are opening all over the world, including one in Turin, so when I read that there was one in Munich - where I was headed for a weekend - I decided  to pay a visit, and perhaps cuddle a German cat or two.



Mascotte in front of the cashier

The fairy-tale Bavarian castles: Neuschwanstein and Linderhof

In Germany being punctual is the norm, and it is always expected of you. I had heard this before, so I left my friend's apartment near Munich's Ostbahnhof early. I hadn't taken into consideration, though, that on weekends there are fewer trains than on weekdays, so I had to wait 8 minutes for my S-bahn train to Munich Hauptbahnhof, where my bus tour of the Bavarian castles was waiting for me.

When I arrived at the station, I looked at the watch: I would meet my bus right on time, at 8.30 sharp, not bad for an Italian. After all, we are not very famous for being on time, are we? Little did I know that I would be the last to join my tour, the lady in charge crossing out my name and then telling the driver to leave! Ah, these German people, are they even human?

Jokes aside, I usually dislike bus tours: you are told when to stop for lunch and how long to spend in one place or the other, and if your are a minute late, you might find the bus leaving without you. When I was given a complimentary ticket for a tour of the Bavarian castles, however, I couldn't complain: I was saving the 23€ of the train ticket, and what's more I would be visiting not one but two castles, while learning something about them on the way.
 

After a very scenic drive through the Bavarian Alps, the bus finally parked in what seemed to be a quiet spot in the middle of nowhere. "Our first stop is Schloss Linderhof", the tour guide announced, "the only castle that King Ludwig II saw completed in his short life".

Schloss Linderhof

My culinary discoveries in Germany and Austria

1) Knödels

 

One of the most memorable meals I had during my short trip to Germany and Austria was at Knödlerei in Salzburg. This place was a suggestion of my friend Kat, an Austrian friend who was so kind to drive all the way from Vienna to meet me for lunch and have a stroll around Salzburg afterwards. Knödlerei is a lovely and informal place next to the university building, and offers many kinds of dumplings, from the traditional ones to some creative varieties, with wasabi or salmon. I had tried the signature dish of this part of Europe before, and was disappointed. After trying Knödlerei, however, I understood that, when made by expert hands, knödels can  be very very tasty. I chose a selection of different traditional knödels, served with onion sauce and sauerkraut, and tackled my sightseeing in Salzburg with a full belly. Guten appetit!



Yummy knoedels dish at Knoedlerei, courtesy of knoedlerei.at 

Munich in April - the flowers, the beer gardens and the quirkiness

Who knew that in April Munich  was so full of flowers! From tulips of all colours to  yellow daffodils, when I visited the city was full of beautiful flowerbeds, carefully tended and very pleasant to see. This is the thing that has struck me the most about Munich.

 

Flower beds in Munich

I don't know if the wooden structure in the picture above is the cover of a fountain for the winter or if that weird but cute square stays like that all year round!

 

Flowers in Munich

Sure, there is also Marienplazt with its famous glockenspiel, the Theatinerkirche with its yellow-painted façade, and of course the lovely Englischer Garten. I really enjoyed walking through the latter, which is the main park in Munich. The city is rich in green areas, but Englischer Garten is one of the biggest city parks in the world. It's bigger than Central Park in New York, can you believe it? It draws its name from the way the English used to lay out of the landscape. Like in English gardens, pavilions are scattered throughout the park.



Englischer Garten

The most famous pavilion in the park is the lovely Chinese Tower (Chinesischer Turm), which  also hosts a famous biergarten. I think we should really thank German people for beer gardens: such a cool place to relax with a beer and a bratwurst. Did you know that you can also bring your own food and picnic there? The Chinese Tower is a wooden structure built for the first time at the end of the eighteenth century, when people really liked chinoiseries, that is to say Chinese things. It also reminds me of the temples in Bali! Here traditional folk music is played, while people enjoy a beer and traditional German food. 

 




Biergarten at the Chinesischer Turm

Of course I couldn't help having a beer and a bratwurst, while with my friend Irina I explored the city. The atmosphere is relaxed and nobody will rush you. I must add that the weather was excellent when I visited!



With a beer

I found Munich to be a clean, tidy city. Its austere architecture may put you off at first, but you'll soon notice the good vibe of the city. It's very clear, while you're walking down the streets of Munich, that you are in a lively, energetic city that's projected towards the future. There is hope in Munich, and people seem happy: the restaurants are full, and the people have money to spend.

Flowers in Marienplatz



There are some pretty quirky things here to visit as well. First of all, I loved all of its statues. The city is scattered with unusual and fanciful statues, like that of Red Riding Hood. Perhaps the connection is through Grimm's fairy tales. Another statue I encountered near Marienplatz is one of Juliet from Shakespeare's play, where - like in Verona - it brings good luck to touch the woman's boob.

Juliet statue near Marienplatz

The weirdest attraction of Munich is not a statue, though. While I was walking in the city centre with my friend, we passed in front of the Bayerischer  Hof, a 5-star hotel, and we found this shrine dedicated to Michael Jackson. Apparently he stayed at this hotel some time before his death, and people began leaving flowers, photos and candles in front of it. The memorial is of course unofficial, as the monument is dedicated to another person, an Orlando di Lasso who I am sure is not very happy about this arrangement. There were some ladies taking care of the shrine, and I wonder if they are MJ's fans.

 

Shrine to Michael Jackson in front of the Bayerishcer Hof

By the way, I have declared Germans the weirdos of Europe (in an affectionate way). Who else could come up with the idea of surfing on the permanent wave of a river in downtown Munich? 

I'll end this post by talking of Viktualienmarkt. It is a really cute open-air market where you can find everything from fresh smoothies to decorations for your home. I really liked walking through the stalls and browse all the Easter decorations on offer.



Fruit stall in Viktualienmarkt

I have more to write about Munich, but I'll save it for another post! Bis bald, Munich!

The old town hall

My next trip: Austria & Southern Bavaria

In April I will be attending a conference in Innsbruck, Austria. I thought that it would be nice to have a look around the area, before and/or after the 5-day conference. I've already been to both Austria and Germany, but there are many places I haven't visited in both countries, including this Alpine town famous for its ski facilities. 

Innsbruck